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Small Pond Installation Guideline

Building your own pond can be an exciting fun experience or a disastrous adventure.  By knowing what to expect before you start your project will help keep your temper in check.  Listed below is a general step-by-step guide that may give you an insight into building your pond, but first the most important step is to check with your city about its building codes and with your utility companies concerning buried cables and pipes.

1. Selecting Your Site
Some of the most important aspects to selecting a good site for your pond should include:

At least 5 hours per day of sunlight is best if you intend to have pond plants

A mostly level site. Do not choose an area that will let runoff enter your pond.

Choose an area that the pond can be viewed, not stuck back in a corner that can't be enjoyed by sight and sound.

Avoid an area with to many trees to keep leaves and debris at a minimum.

Try and choose a spot that is somewhat protected from strong wind.

Select a site that will be convenient for electricity and water.

If you are going to include a shelf in your pond for plants, be sure and consider this before you start digging.  Some people opt to have a shelf all the way around the pond and some may just have an area that has a shelf for the submerged pond plants. The pond shelf is generally used for marginal plants and submerged plants sit on the bottom of the pond.

When you first start the digging, you need to make a shallow trench all the way around the edge of the pond measuring 1-3" deep x 12-15"wide approximately.

2. Shaping Your Pond
People have all different types of taste, so you can build your pond to reflect your outdoor decor.  From a formal type pond to a pond that looks like a lagoon on a tropical island, the choice is yours.

You can use a garden hose or string to design the shape of your pond.  Avoid making small curves and crevices.  It will be harder to keep clean and also harder to conform a liner into the small curve.

If you are going to include a stream or waterfall in your pond, you need to take that into consideration before you start to dig.  

3. Digging Your Pond
Once you are satisfied with your layout plan for your pond site you can start your digging (don't forget to check with your utility companies before you dig). Depending on what type of soil you have, actually getting the dirt out can be relatively easy; or slow and painful.  With some hands on experience, I have dug out ponds in Oklahoma, Texas and Arizona, with soil types of clay and sand.  Once I got past the 1st foot of soil it was easier digging in Arizona but harder in Oklahoma, so it just depends on your soil type.

Protecting the Liner
Something you need to think about when you install a pond is the environment around it.  A few important points to keep in mind are:

A. Will the pond come in contact with wildlife, especially hoofed animals such as deer, elk, cattle, horses?

B. Will the pond be used for swimming?

C.  Will the pond be used for fishing or any other recreational use?

If you answered yes to any of these, the recommended installation procedure is to put a layer of GEOTEXTILE on top of the base soil, then install the liner, then put another layer of GEOTEXTILE on top of the liner, then bury the liner under 8-12" of sand or soil.

Depending on the use, you can install the GEOTEXTILE just around the outer edges of the pond, in all the areas where hoofed animals, wildlife or people may come in contact, and then cover that area with sand or soil.

4. Installing a Liner

After the hole is dug, leveled and ready for the liner, be sure and dig a small trench around the outside edge of the pond to bring the liner into and back out the trench.  You then backfill this area in order to secure you liner.  For those of you who are not going to bury the liner, you will need to batten the liner at the top edge of your containment area.

Put your liner  (geotextile underlayment should be placed first if you are using it to protect the liner) into the pond, leaving it loose fitting, fixing the corner areas by folding over neatly.  Once your liner is in place where you want it, put some of your backfill loosely ( do not compact yet) in the trench to partially secure the liner.  Now, slowly fill the pond with water.  It is best to get into the pond with your bare feet or with soft soled shoes and adjust your liner as the pond is filling, making sure the liner is conforming to your pond the way you want it. Do not start filling the pond and then leave area, or you may have to drain and refill to make any adjustments.

Once the water is within a few inches from the top of the pond, turn your water off.  You will want to then cut off the excess liner around your partially backfilled trench, leaving about 6".  At this time you can add your pump, filter, lighting, fountains and any other accessories that have tubes or cords that can be buried in the trench.  Once all your connections are ready to be buried, you can finish backfilling and compacting the entire trench area.

5. Laying the Border    

Lay the rocks of choice around the edge of the pond so they lay over the edging toward the inside of the pond about 1 to 2 inches. This will help hide the top inside edge of the liner.  Also, if you build the coping area as illustrated above it will hide the liner from showing.  Once you have all the rocks or brick laid out, start placing the mortar to hold them together, or whatever means you are using to keep the border secure.

6. Finishing Touches

The pond is now finished, except now you need some fish and plants.  Place water plants into the pond by setting the pots onto the shelf and on the bottom of the pond.  Before placing fish into the pond, make sure you put a water conditioner into the pond that will take out chlorine, etc..Usually well water is just fine as it is.  Be sure your pump is oxygenating the water.  A good rule of thumb is one inch of fish per sqft of water surface, unless you are stocking KOI fish then the rule is one fish per 25 square feet of pond space.

 

Note:  All information contained herein are guidelines only!  Western Ag and or Western Environmental Liner are not responsible for it use.



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